A Few Days of Holy Week

Wednesday of Holy Week found Carolyn and I back in the search for the illusive articular  Lutheran churches of which there are only five in existence.  We are determined to find all five. This time we headed North, up the Orava Valley with our first stop at a place called Listany.  As usual, we went miles past and then backtracked to this beautiful house of worship. We couldn't get in, but managed to see most of the exterior as well as tour the cemetary. The detail on these churches is amazing, and when one realizes they  were all put together without nails, it is even more amazing.  Lutherans are not into pilgrimage type activities, like the Catholics of Levoca climbing the mountain to their church on their knees on Good Friday, however you must climb 150 steps just to get to the door of this church. And then, as is the case with many of these ancient buildings, the doorway is five feet tall.  The second church on this search totally eluded us but maybe for good reason. We were able to meet a wonderful Catholic woman who was washing the windows of a most beautiful modern church, and in turn her English (somewhat) speaking grandaughter and boyfriend. They invited us in. We enjoyed seeing the spectacular interior of this church, but also got to hear a group of young people practicing their music for Easter.  Never found the second church, it got dark.  The interesting thing is that the largest of these churches was about two miles from our pension but we couldn't get to it as the new Superhighway D-1 blocked the way.  Maundy Thursday found us back at our dear relatives' home in Remeniny.  Zuzana, Jan, Ludovit, Slavo, Zlata and little Karinka welcomed us back. One cannot escape Slovak hospitality; we are still here.  Big Friday as they call it, found us all worshipping in the church at Hanosovice nad Toplau, pronounced Hannashoveetsa nad Toeplow, which means on the Toplau River.  A beautiful church, a spirited congregation and a powerful experience. We called on the Pastor at his residence later in the day. The congregation furnishes a huge house for him and it serves as a place for the youth to meet, for congegational meetings and for other business functions.  Holy Saturday Ludvit took us on a long circular trip in search of three very old churches. We went into the high mountains and valleys of the Slovensko kraj, Slovak Paradise, where we found our first prize in Stitnik.  The church dates in the early 1600's and is a massive building found much in it's original condition, walls covered in very faded frescoes, ornately carved and painted liurgical art everywhere, heavily worn pews and the oldest Baptismal font in all of Europe. Jan, who is a lay official in the Presov district, called ahead and had the Mayor of the town meet us and serve as our guide.  His key to the door was 12 inches long!  Milos the mayor worships in this building each Sunday.  Milos must wear a snowmachine suit.  The church is huge, freezing, damp and NO source of heat.  Regardless, the word of God has resonated from this church for over 400 years. I was absolutely overcome by the enormity of  the place!  You want to talk medievil, they even had a cagelike box for, as Milos said, "bad women", women whose coats were too short.  On to the next village Rejdova, where we were met by Jan Criscak, curator by title and a shepherd by trade.  A magnificently kind  and caring man,  who took us inside a shabby exterior to a stunning worship setting.  His key was bigger!  Good reason.  The pulpit and the altar and dossil curtain were covered in 18carat gold!  The interior of the church in some ways reminded us of the Wendish church in Serbin and the church in Perry County, Missouri, in that the pulpit is quite high and the balcony a horseshoe afair that comes down both sides.  This church worships one thousand people each Sunday (they have two services).  I am going to interject this observation while I'm thinking about it.  Whether city or town, whether village or hamlet, at worship time the streets and lanes are full of people walking to church.  Over 70% of Slovak people worship regularly with church being a focal  point in their lives.  Many  businesses close from Maunday Thursday through Easter Monday.  So, Catholic, Lutheran and Greek Catholic all maintain their individual customs in this season.  Back to the three churches.  The first big church was founded Lutheran, was taken by the Catholics and then returned to the Lutherans.  The second church was Greek Catholic, all the Greek Catholics converted and it be came Lutheran.  This one also comes out of the 1600's.  The last church was shown to us by the young woman pastor, whose husband is pastor of the first church. Unique at this church, which is even older, is that they have begun an outreach ministry to the Roma people, or Gypsies. These people are typically held in contempt in this part of the world for their non-conforming lifestyle. So here is a good example of an ancient church in a small tradional village reaching out to the needs of the community.  Tomorrow is Easter and the people of  Slovakia are preparing both their hearts and their homes for the Day of Ressurection.

 Carolyn and me, my Slovak family and their pastor on Big Friday (Good Friday).

 The altar at our familys' church.  Note the picture behind the altar of Jesus knocking at the door and the slogans left and right that translate "A mighty fortress is our God".  You might notice that the interior of this church is very plain.  As you will see in later pictures, this is not always the case.

 The articular Lutheran Church at Listany is a wonderful example of what man can do with a few boards.

 I am less than half way up the stairs to the church!  I don't know if I'll have enough breath left to sing.

A view from the cemetary which, like the church, dates into the 1600s.

 The mighty Orava Castle was used to guard the trade routes down the valley from Poland.

This is the church of St. Michael the Archangel.  Focusing on the red roof you will see how I would envision the design of a steeple for Funny River Lutheran.  What do you think?

 This is the beautiful modern Catholic church I talked about.  Jesus is a work of art in natural wood.

The massive ancient Lutheran church at Stitnik.  Note the car at the left of the church to give you an idea of the size.

I look up at this style of steeple and imagine myself guarding the town from the parapet.

 And here's the oldest baptistry in all of Europe.  It is kept covered to protect the engraving.

 This is the cage I mentioned.  It hasn't been used in years!

 Look at these two pipe organs!  How would you like to get up to the top one....let alone play it???

 This carving on the pulpit was carved by a student of Master Paul of Lavoca, as are many of the other carvings in this church and in the other two churches.

 This is a fairly typical Roma camp.  These camps are often found on the outskirts of towns we've seen.

 This is the church at Rejdova, much in need of an exterior paint job, but wait until you see inside!

 These are some extremely precious pieces.  Not only are they covered in 18 carat gold, but many of the figures come out of the workshop of Master Paul of Levoca.

 Cousin Ludovit and Shepherd/Curator Jan.

This balcony is reminiscent of the church at Serbin.

 People were shorter when this church was built!

 This organ leads the singing of a thousand worshippers.

 Colorfully dressed women of the village.

 The Slovosovce Lutheran church.  On the left hand side as you look at it is the oldest part of this church which dates to the early 1600s.

 Our 'hostess' Pastor Lydia in her ornately carved pulpit.  These pulpits typically have the likenesses of Matthew, Mark, Luke and John signifying that this is the place from which the Gospel is proclaimed.

 Another example of the balconies I have mentioned.  Pastor Lydia tells me that from the pulpit she is able to have eye contact with all of the people in the church.

This is a part of the mission to the Roma people; a Gypsy praise band.  This is a tiny town in very rural Solvakia!

Their ornate altar has been in a workshop for the past two years being restored.  This temporary altar still has the Big Friday paraments.

Coming soon to this blog is Easter and Easter Monday.
Sola Deo Gloria

The Winding Road

The winding road is said to offer something new around every corner.  Last night we popped over to Poland for dinner. Now that is a winding road, made up of curves, hairpin curves, some asphalt and mostly bottomless potholes. At the end of the road is Poland's version of Aspen on steroids.  The architecture, which we will photograph for you on another visit, was absolutely grand.  Turn the corner and you are in a new world.  Even the potatoes taste different!  And that has been our story each day of this journey into Slovakia, something new around every corner.  We dropped down into the little village of Spisska Kapitula and were immediately drawn into magic of Spis Castle, the largest castle in Europe, first mentioned in 1120, absolutely dominates the horizon.  As we drive on up the highway we see villlage after village dominated by their village church.  Some are modest, some are grand, but they all proclaim Jesus by their very presence.  As I have mentioned to you before, this land has a tragic spiritual history and as a result there are three main religious groups worshipping here. The Roman Catholics are by far the largest worshipping body, followed by an interesting group, the Greek Catholics....not Greek Orthodox, not Roman Catholics, but GREEK CATHOLICS.  The smallest group of worshipping Christians are the Lutherans.  You might note that most of the small wooden churches we will visit are, in fact, Greek Catholic. We had the distinct privilege to meet and spend time with a Greek Catholic pastor.  Pastor Miroslav IIlko, ThD and PhD., a most delightful young man who reminded me of my good friend Brandt Hoffman, pastor at Zion, Anchorage.  Miroslav is quite bright, quite dedicated to the ministry and obviously a servant in all ways.  He spent months on his hands and knees building a brand new church and then hardly drawing a breath, built a beautiful building for the youth of his town.  We come around a few more corners, and by the strength of memory alone find the church that graces our blog site, the church where my great grandfather is buried.  From the church yard one can look out and see a village in all four directions, maybe a mile or two away.  Guess what?  They all have a church and, in this area, mostly Lutheran or Greek Catholic. Carolyn and I get back in that French car of ours and travel around a few more curves. One curve offers an interesting sight, an old airplane turned Resturant.   A few more curves and we are in the little village of our relatives, Remeniny.  Our cousin Slavo has the newest house in town, and that is how they are numbered. Slavo, the mayor of Remeniny, owns house number 74. They were waiting for us and we began a weekend of feasting, worship, feasting and feasting. We are now in the high Tatras, in the small village of Zdiar, where around the corner you may have to slow for a tractor, or for a horse drawn working cart and maybe view horses being used to haul logs out of the mountains, getting to places where machines cannot get. We are here to see where it is that we will spend the entire month of May, and part of June. Our house is beautiful!  As to the road up to it, I would venture to say that 99 out of 100 people would never attempt to take a sedan up the road that takes us there. I did!  We look out our window and we are eye to eye with the peaks of the High Tatras....they are right across the road!  We went today to Kezmarok to see another of the articular wooden Lutheran Churches, as well as the more modern (1894) Lutheran Cathedral next door. We will spend the next several days of Holy Week with our relatives worshipping Thursday, twice Good Friday, Saturday, Easter Sunday and Easter Monday. Maundy Thursday we will worship at the big Lutheran Cathedral in Presov. This is the seat of the Bishop. This Slovak Church is the The Lutheran Church of the Augsburg Confession. They do have bishops and they do have, hang onto you hats, nuns, although it would appear that it is a fading practice in that the nuns I have seen are all approaching 90. Our plan begins to thicken as we join hands with cousin Jan and his wife Luzanna and maybe even son Ludovit, and begin to get into the far reaches of Slovakia seeking the "Wooden Churches". You want to talk winding roads, many of these are less than one lane wide. We are excited!!!! Hope to have lots to share. Now check out these pictures from the winding road.

 This beautifully dressed Slovak woman of Spisska Kapitula is probably gazing at what you will see next.

 Spis Castle in all of her grandeur.

Interior of the new church in town, built in 1617.

 You probably recognize this as the church on the header of my blog.  Immediately behind this church are buried my great grandmother and great grandfather.

As you can see, Remeniny, the home of my relatives, is a very fast-paced town.

A cup of coffee at this restaurant is guaranteed to give you a lift!

 Around a bend we came upon a European stork.  The women in the car got a little nervous.

 This is part of my family in Remeniny.  On the left is Ludovit, next to him his sister-in-law Zlata, the newest member of the family, Karina, being held by her father, Slavo.

 Preparing the toast for our "after two meals snack" is the patriarch of the family, my cousin Jan.

 

The matriarch of the family, Luzana, with her Alaska relatives beside the still waters.

 This is the new Lutheran church in Kezmarok, built in 1894, and designed by an architect who obviously was on a Moorish bender.

 I really am not an expert, but the color and the design of this Lutheran church somehow does not fit.

 This is the old organ loft from the Lutheran articular church next door.  This church is made entirely of wood, but the outside has received a plaster covering.  This is a very difficult place to photograph simply because of all of the dark colors.

 The hand carved pulpit, very ornate to say the least.  The church was built in 1717, following all of the articular orders.  It seats 1,500 people and is used for services only in the months of July and August. 

 Come around the corner and what do we find but a Slovak traffic jam!

We close with a picture of Pastor Miroslav's beautiful new Greek Catholic church.

Let's see where the road goes from here..............   Sola de Gloria

Wooden Church Search Begins

We had quite a day today, saw lots of country, some great buildings, a whole lot of Slovaks, including a group of school kids on a field trip, but the crown jewel of our travels today was visiting the Wooden Articlar Church at Hronsek. What a magnificent edifice!  Entirely built of wood, even the single chandelier, and entirely original from 1725.  This is a living breathing church, used for worship every Sunday now for 285 years. The wood, preserved by beeswax, shows the wear and tear of years of praying, sitting and kneeling. This is one of only three Lutheran Articular Churches in existence although there were about thirty built. From a historical perspective it is interesting to note that Slovakia was predominately Protestant and Lutheran following the Reformation. The Habsburgs were responsible for the recatholicisation of Slovakia in the 1600's. A number of protestants were martyred in this process. It was in 1681 that Emperor Leopold the first was pressured by "the Slovak King" Count Thokoly, who happens to be buried in the Lutheran Church in Kesmarok, to let them build some Lutheran Churches in Slovakia. Thirty two were allowed and they had to strictly follow the articles 25and 26 of the Treaty of Sopron. Hence the name Articul;ar Churches. The articles or rules are as follows: all wood, no nails, no steeples, no doors facing the road, must be built out of town and had to be finished in one year.  I suppose the thinking was that no one would see a church without a steeple, they might not be able to find the door, but most importantly they probably believed that these churches would be of sloppy, shortlived constuction, and would last only a short time. Wrong! This church holds 1100 worshippers, all who can see the altar and pulpit, worship has been held for some 285 years, and by the look of the place will continue indefinately. This church and property was declared a UNESCO Heritage Site in 2008, insuring its careful mainenance for perpetuity. Being a wood nut (certified), I can't tell you how the details in the building of this House of Worship thrilled me. I share with you today not the castles we saw or the majestic mountains or the many other church edifaces, but this simple wooden church.

 The church is in the shape of a cross and is two stories tall.  There is seating on three sides facing the altar on the first floor.  On the second floor there is seating on three sides with the organ and seating for the choir on the fourth side.  The doorway pictured is on the side of the church and is matched by another doorway on the opposite side of the church.  Notice the details on the door, the porch roof and the walls.

 This is a detail photo of the method of wood joinery used.  Note the use of oak pegs.  For the engineers among you, note the bearing of the load.

 The altar and the pulpit are trimmed in real gold.  The scene portrayed behind the altar can be changed for each season of the church year.  The organ is above the altar.  When we went upstairs, the woman who was our "guide" invited Carolyn to play the organ.  Unfortunately, she does not know how.

 The ceiling in the structure are barrel vaults which come together at the crossing and it is there that the gold chandelier, made of wood, hangs.

 Hopefully these Slovak Lutheran preachers do not preach long sermons!  Take a look at these pews which show a lot of wear but do not seem to be exuding a lot of comfort.

 Remember how one of the articles said no steeples?  They built it across the street and called it something else.

This is the kind woman who showed us the inside of the church and all of its treasures.  Each time she made a point, in Slovak of course, she would poke the pastor from Alaska.  She lives next door, is a member of the church, has a key and devotes her time to sharing this beautiful treasure.  Sola de Gloria!