A Few Days of Holy Week

Wednesday of Holy Week found Carolyn and I back in the search for the illusive articular  Lutheran churches of which there are only five in existence.  We are determined to find all five. This time we headed North, up the Orava Valley with our first stop at a place called Listany.  As usual, we went miles past and then backtracked to this beautiful house of worship. We couldn't get in, but managed to see most of the exterior as well as tour the cemetary. The detail on these churches is amazing, and when one realizes they  were all put together without nails, it is even more amazing.  Lutherans are not into pilgrimage type activities, like the Catholics of Levoca climbing the mountain to their church on their knees on Good Friday, however you must climb 150 steps just to get to the door of this church. And then, as is the case with many of these ancient buildings, the doorway is five feet tall.  The second church on this search totally eluded us but maybe for good reason. We were able to meet a wonderful Catholic woman who was washing the windows of a most beautiful modern church, and in turn her English (somewhat) speaking grandaughter and boyfriend. They invited us in. We enjoyed seeing the spectacular interior of this church, but also got to hear a group of young people practicing their music for Easter.  Never found the second church, it got dark.  The interesting thing is that the largest of these churches was about two miles from our pension but we couldn't get to it as the new Superhighway D-1 blocked the way.  Maundy Thursday found us back at our dear relatives' home in Remeniny.  Zuzana, Jan, Ludovit, Slavo, Zlata and little Karinka welcomed us back. One cannot escape Slovak hospitality; we are still here.  Big Friday as they call it, found us all worshipping in the church at Hanosovice nad Toplau, pronounced Hannashoveetsa nad Toeplow, which means on the Toplau River.  A beautiful church, a spirited congregation and a powerful experience. We called on the Pastor at his residence later in the day. The congregation furnishes a huge house for him and it serves as a place for the youth to meet, for congegational meetings and for other business functions.  Holy Saturday Ludvit took us on a long circular trip in search of three very old churches. We went into the high mountains and valleys of the Slovensko kraj, Slovak Paradise, where we found our first prize in Stitnik.  The church dates in the early 1600's and is a massive building found much in it's original condition, walls covered in very faded frescoes, ornately carved and painted liurgical art everywhere, heavily worn pews and the oldest Baptismal font in all of Europe. Jan, who is a lay official in the Presov district, called ahead and had the Mayor of the town meet us and serve as our guide.  His key to the door was 12 inches long!  Milos the mayor worships in this building each Sunday.  Milos must wear a snowmachine suit.  The church is huge, freezing, damp and NO source of heat.  Regardless, the word of God has resonated from this church for over 400 years. I was absolutely overcome by the enormity of  the place!  You want to talk medievil, they even had a cagelike box for, as Milos said, "bad women", women whose coats were too short.  On to the next village Rejdova, where we were met by Jan Criscak, curator by title and a shepherd by trade.  A magnificently kind  and caring man,  who took us inside a shabby exterior to a stunning worship setting.  His key was bigger!  Good reason.  The pulpit and the altar and dossil curtain were covered in 18carat gold!  The interior of the church in some ways reminded us of the Wendish church in Serbin and the church in Perry County, Missouri, in that the pulpit is quite high and the balcony a horseshoe afair that comes down both sides.  This church worships one thousand people each Sunday (they have two services).  I am going to interject this observation while I'm thinking about it.  Whether city or town, whether village or hamlet, at worship time the streets and lanes are full of people walking to church.  Over 70% of Slovak people worship regularly with church being a focal  point in their lives.  Many  businesses close from Maunday Thursday through Easter Monday.  So, Catholic, Lutheran and Greek Catholic all maintain their individual customs in this season.  Back to the three churches.  The first big church was founded Lutheran, was taken by the Catholics and then returned to the Lutherans.  The second church was Greek Catholic, all the Greek Catholics converted and it be came Lutheran.  This one also comes out of the 1600's.  The last church was shown to us by the young woman pastor, whose husband is pastor of the first church. Unique at this church, which is even older, is that they have begun an outreach ministry to the Roma people, or Gypsies. These people are typically held in contempt in this part of the world for their non-conforming lifestyle. So here is a good example of an ancient church in a small tradional village reaching out to the needs of the community.  Tomorrow is Easter and the people of  Slovakia are preparing both their hearts and their homes for the Day of Ressurection.

 Carolyn and me, my Slovak family and their pastor on Big Friday (Good Friday).

 The altar at our familys' church.  Note the picture behind the altar of Jesus knocking at the door and the slogans left and right that translate "A mighty fortress is our God".  You might notice that the interior of this church is very plain.  As you will see in later pictures, this is not always the case.

 The articular Lutheran Church at Listany is a wonderful example of what man can do with a few boards.

 I am less than half way up the stairs to the church!  I don't know if I'll have enough breath left to sing.

A view from the cemetary which, like the church, dates into the 1600s.

 The mighty Orava Castle was used to guard the trade routes down the valley from Poland.

This is the church of St. Michael the Archangel.  Focusing on the red roof you will see how I would envision the design of a steeple for Funny River Lutheran.  What do you think?

 This is the beautiful modern Catholic church I talked about.  Jesus is a work of art in natural wood.

The massive ancient Lutheran church at Stitnik.  Note the car at the left of the church to give you an idea of the size.

I look up at this style of steeple and imagine myself guarding the town from the parapet.

 And here's the oldest baptistry in all of Europe.  It is kept covered to protect the engraving.

 This is the cage I mentioned.  It hasn't been used in years!

 Look at these two pipe organs!  How would you like to get up to the top one....let alone play it???

 This carving on the pulpit was carved by a student of Master Paul of Lavoca, as are many of the other carvings in this church and in the other two churches.

 This is a fairly typical Roma camp.  These camps are often found on the outskirts of towns we've seen.

 This is the church at Rejdova, much in need of an exterior paint job, but wait until you see inside!

 These are some extremely precious pieces.  Not only are they covered in 18 carat gold, but many of the figures come out of the workshop of Master Paul of Levoca.

 Cousin Ludovit and Shepherd/Curator Jan.

This balcony is reminiscent of the church at Serbin.

 People were shorter when this church was built!

 This organ leads the singing of a thousand worshippers.

 Colorfully dressed women of the village.

 The Slovosovce Lutheran church.  On the left hand side as you look at it is the oldest part of this church which dates to the early 1600s.

 Our 'hostess' Pastor Lydia in her ornately carved pulpit.  These pulpits typically have the likenesses of Matthew, Mark, Luke and John signifying that this is the place from which the Gospel is proclaimed.

 Another example of the balconies I have mentioned.  Pastor Lydia tells me that from the pulpit she is able to have eye contact with all of the people in the church.

This is a part of the mission to the Roma people; a Gypsy praise band.  This is a tiny town in very rural Solvakia!

Their ornate altar has been in a workshop for the past two years being restored.  This temporary altar still has the Big Friday paraments.

Coming soon to this blog is Easter and Easter Monday.
Sola Deo Gloria